PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor  (£305.99 @ Amazon UK) 
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler  (£64.00 @ Computer Orbit) 
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (£169.98 @ Scan.co.uk) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (£113.70 @ Amazon UK) 
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card  (£207.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M 2022 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (£94.90 @ Amazon UK) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£119.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Total: £1076.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-30 22:10 BST+0100

• Be quiet! Pure Base 600 ATX (black) with tinted glass and optional metal side panel
• Be quiet! Straight Power 11 550W, 80 Plus Gold (in hindsight this should have been 650W minimum)
• Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI (with Gigabyte TPM Module 2.0)
• Intel Core i9-9900K
• Cryorig H7 CPU cooler
• 64 GB G.Skill DDR4 Ripjaws-V 3200Mhz (4 x 16 GB)
• KFA2 RTX 2070 SUPER (8 GB DDR6)
• C:\ Samsung 980 1 TB PCIe 3.0
• D:\ Intel 660P 1 TB PCIe 3.0
• E:\ Samsung 870 Qvo 2TB SSD
• F:\ LG BH10LS38 (CD/DVD/BluRay writer)

The 2019 build wasn't done in one go, I initially had a i5-9600K and 32GB memory, which was perfectly fine with 550W 80 Plus Gold PSU.

I want to avoid spending more money later on parts that I initially cheaped out on back in 2019.

Here is the proposed new build:

Part picker https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MNWC3y

Drives being moved to new PC

• Lexar NM710 2 TB (PCIe 4.0)
• Samsung 870 Qvo 4 TB SSD (SATA)

I am ordering in The Netherlands where the amount comes to €2,792.39. I can get a part tax write off by ordering it through my self-employed business.

The 4070Ti is already ordered and on the way, but all the other components are not ordered yet.

Things that are important to me:

I run multiple VMs, sometimes two or three at a time, Android emulation (bluestacks) video encoding, and possibility for decent gaming and future proofing (4-5 years).

May 31 update: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZVbY4s

USB popup saying "Display connection might be limited. Make sure the DisplayPort device you're connecting to is supported by your PC."

my Dell U2720QM Monitor is connected via standard display port. Yet I get this message when I want to use the USB Ports on my monitor. I have the USB Hub in the monitor connected back to the system via USB-C, which is the only way the uplink port goes back.

Why would my display connection be limited? nothing is limiting it, and there is no video over USB-C set up, thunderbolt is turned off on in the BIOS config as I am powering this monitor over a nVIDIA RTX 3080 card and have no need for thunderbolt either.

What am I missing? I want to use the monitors side USB  ports and use the display port connection to the dedicated card and not get this warning every time I start up in windows 11

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Last year's Battlestations thread is here.

The title says it all.

Specs:

• Refurbished Dell XPS 7590 was purchased back in Jan 2020.
• i7 9750H.
• 32GB DDR4
• 512GB SSD
• GTX 1650.
• The battery is already at 65 - 70% of its cycles. It was replaced three years ago.

Tweaks:

• CPU undervolted with ThrottleStop.

See images.

What I have done:

1. Replaced thermal paste Artic MX-6 on March 2023 (2 months ago) - Paste was purchased on Feb 14 of 2023 (This year)
2. Cleaned all the dust.
3. Scanned for viruses (Nothing found)
4. sfc -scannow (Nothing found)
5. chkdsk (Nothing found)
6. Checked using process explorer for hidden programs; nothing found.

Programs I have opened:

1. Browsers (Firefox, Vivaldi, Edge)
   1. I tend to have multiple tabs on YouTube, but only a single video may play.
2. VSCode with NodeJS running using WSL.
3. Outlook
4. Docker (Running 1 - 2 instances of PostgreSQL)

Strange behavior:

1. The fans don't ramp up if I open the laptop and resit the thermal pad.
2. If I hibernate the computer (without resitting the thermal pad) and turn it back on, fans ramp up on the boot screen (without using the PC for 7-8 hours).
3. I don't know why (if there's a program), but you can hear the fans ramping up by letting it sit idle without any media playing back.
4. Sometimes fans ramp up while the PC sleeps.

Inquiries:

1. Is this expected behavior?
2. Could it be Windows or another component? (Thinking of formatting the PC this weekend... it's been a while)

P.S:

I just took a screenshot and the CPU temps are mildly normal. Currently in battery

Edit x1:  1:54PM EST

Added the time when I reapplied the thermal paste.

Any good recommendations for a replacement?

Need not be fancy, need to be small - and worn all times besides a 'regular' watch [it's for my parents], just practical & displaying appointments and scheduled tasks. Preferably 'idiot proof'.

So no "expensive" Apple Watch. An entry model of Garmin or Polar should do, but maybe there are other cheaper, customer-/UX-friendly, alternatives.

Anyone ideas?

Soecs

ASUS ROG Strix Z790-A
G. Skill RiPjaws S5 DDR5 6000 16x4 (64GB Total)
ASUS GeForce 3060 RTX
Corsair HX750 PSU
Corsair H115i CPU Cooler
4x nvme SSDs all Samsung 980 Pros

this system had zero issues for a couple months now, but today I set it to do a GPU intensive task (CUDA only) it ran for hours, then it just blipped off

No power, pressed the power button nothing, turned the PSU power switch off let it set a minute turned back on, pressed power, nothing

unplugged replugged, nothing wouldnt turn on

so I pulled the ATX connector, did the jumper Power on to ground pins and the PSU came on checked all the voltates, +12, -12, 3.3, 5 all came back correct... plugged it back into the motherboard, came back on

any idea what would cause this? Strangely now though the LED on the power button is off all the time, it was on before this happened... haven't tested the LED independently yet, but it's odd that it's off now when the system is on... it's plugged into the correct header on the motherboard and has the correct polarity.

Is there anything I can do to shield the cable to prevent signal loss?

I have also read this
https://support.displaylink.com/knowledgebase/articles/738618-display-intermittently-blanking-flickering-or-los

But still clueless on what to do.

In terms of speed? Maybe reliability? Or other things?
Or doesn't it make any sense for this?

All hardware support is no more.

I know that Dell is/used to be very picky on RAM installed.

I found 'G.Skill DDR3 8GB(2x4GB) 1066MHz CL7' RAM, (EAN: 4711148594820) and was wondering if this kit is compatible?
And if not, what affordable RAM is?

At night these are really bright so I would like to disable those completely.

Hello,

This is the new yearly poll for sharing your preferred storage solutions and covers both hard disk drives and solid-state drives.  The previous year's poll can be found here.

Please feel free to describe what you are currently using this year, plus any planned upgrades.

Regards,

Aryeh Goretsky

But what helped me was to run the RGB Fusion 2.0 app as administrator, set my preference and then open task manager and force quit RGBFusion.exe

Because I noticed when the lighting would not stay on, upon shutting down or rebooting, one of the first things that happened was the lighting shut off, normally that didn't happen until power was cut from my PC (or was fully turned off) so this kind of indicated to me that the app was doing something.

After I rebooted I started RGB Fusion 2.0 app as administrator and my saved lighting preference immediately enabled the RGB lighting (I did not have to configure anything) at this point I used Windows 10 Task Manager to quit RGBFusion.exe and the RGB lighting stayed on, to further test this I rebooted my PC again and the lighting stayed on again as normal.

To elaborate, although I did delete the AtiTool folder from C:\Program Files (x86)\Gigabyte\RGB fusion and renamed GvBiosLib.dll to GvBiosLib.bak from the above linked guide, these steps probably didn't do anything to fix it.

Hope this helps someone.

I never used this... and for the life of me, I cannot remember what it was ever meant to be for. Hell, I cannot even remember if it came with some conversion kit, or my PC case. I attempted to use Google Lens, which has been pretty decent in the past identifying odd objects, but sadly, no go here.

Anyone else have one of these to help me ID?

Would it be fine if i stored my Headset On Top of PC Tower at Night?    as i don't really like disconnecting it every night--though i do share the same headset with Gaming Laptop,  so sometimes i do have to disconnect it.       But would it be fine to store on top of Tower at times when sleeping or not using?     

Plan on getting a headset stand soon as i can afford one in the future

Some looking for info on the internet states:

"Differences in pricing
In general, NVMe SSDs are more expensive than SATA SSDs. Even when both NVMe and SATA drives have the same storage capacities, NVMe drives cost more. The cost of a 250GB NVMe SSD storage space ranges from $50 to $90, a 500GB one from $70 to $160, and a 1TB storage from $120 to $200."

https://www.spiceworks.com/tech/hardware/articles/sata-vs-nvme/#:~:text=Differences in pricing,storage from %24120 to %24200.

https://www.promax.com/blog/is-it-worth-paying-more-for-an-nvme-vs-ssd

That doesn't match these statements.....
Or have these differences occured over the last couple of months?

I just got a new PC Case and decided to clean out my pc parts. I took out every single part, cleaned it a bit and even applied new thermal paste to the CPU. Then I put everything back in the new case and booted into the bios to configure the fans. Suddenly I get these really loud short continuous beep codes so I decide to power it off again. I have a gigabyte motherboard so I checked what the respective beep codes mean but the websites all claim different meanings like it being a PSU issue, Ram or CPU issue or even unplugged cables (everything is tightly attached I triple checked!) (Also before putting everything into the case I checked to see if all the parts were working like they should so I built everything without the case together and everything was working fine.)

Any ideas? 😢

I bought the Gigabyte X670 Aorus Elite AX motherboard. I have also purchased 2 Kits of "G.Skill 32GB 2X D5 6000 C36 FX B" (if needed, I also have 1000W power supply, a Ryzen 9 7950X, and an nVidia 3090 in this system for specifications. I am also running 2x 2TB Samsung NVMe M.2 Storage drives)

When I use 2 Sticks situated in slots A2 and B2 The PC boots fine with zero issues and just plane works.
If I populate with the other 2 slots, the BIOS can see all the RAM and let me configured EXPO and everything "appears" fine. However, it can never progress further than the BIOS screen. (I have tried with EXPO on and off with the same results)

I have heard from many places looking this up to just "Leave it be" for 5-10 minutes for it to train or whatnot. however, even leaving it for Half an hour to 45 minutes it just did nothing.

The fans are all on Max tilt as well as the DRAM light on the motherboard being on during this time. When you look up that light in the manual, it just tells you that there is something wrong with the RAM and to look into it. No codes or error logs can be found on the BIOS or system level.

I have tried swapping the RAM sticks around as well as replacing a set wholesale and the issue still persists.

Is this particular motherboard, or just X670 in general just not ready for 4 sticks of RAM or am I alone in trying to put this particular set of kits in this particular motherboard to learn the lesson of compatibility the hard way?

I have had some problems with my PC recently... It's a PC that was built by the staff of a website called CSL-Computer which is like a PC Configuration site. I used this PC for about 2 Years and after a crash while playing GTA it wouldn't turn on properly anymore. Here's exactly what happened:

1: Computer Bluescreens and I let it work for nearly 30 mins

2: I then decide to press the power button once, wait 2-3 Mins and nothing happens

3: then I flip the power switch on my PSU to turn it off entirely

4: I boot the PC again, fails to boot into windows and instead boots into bios

5: I try to make windows boot but bios tells me it can't detect a harddrive/SSD

6: I use the internet to figure out how to fix it but after rebooting into the bios multiple times I turn it off for some time then attempt it again

7: Suddenly my Monitor doesn't receive a Signal and the light on my RTX keeps switching on and off as if it was trying to start

I started troubleshooting and tested the cables by swapping and checking if they were seated properly but nothing happens, heck I even got another case(unrelated purchase) and put the components in but it still wont turn on. HDMI-Cable works properly, Monitor does, all Parts also seem to work since they light up, fans are spinning but I am not getting any Monitor-Signals even though the Monitor briefly leaves Power saving mode when starting the PC but then says "no signal found"

I had a similar Problem before where the PC suddenly wouldn't boot into anything but then I still got beep-signals so I was able to figure out that the ram was faulty. 

This time around I have no Idea to fix it and I figured asking the experts of neowin for advice before bringing it to a expensive PC-Repair shop I hope somebody is able to give me solutions or at least suspect what component might be faulty 

After the clean install, I try/tried to use this Samsung NVMe in my other computer.

The device manager gives this issue.

I have renamed the drivers, and deleted them. But for some reason it's not fully healthy I think.
It's completely wiped and empty, and a new partition has been created [and wiped again].

I have connected the SSK external NVMe to my other computer via USB-C and then this error appeared.
With a standard USB-USB/C it looks like it's running.

Might this "simply" be a USB-C cable issue? [although on my ROG STRIX I also tried the other USB to USB-C cable and there it didn't work.
Or is something else the case here?

Is the drive faulty? It's still under the 5-years warranty?

EDIT:

The cloning went successful!